Sun & Rain and Our Last 2 Days in Dominica

Taking pictures at Red Rocks on the north coast of the Caribbean island of Dominica

Our next day in Dominica was about as low key as I do on vacation, it seems. Typically, I have a full day planned and try to squeeze in as much as I can in the time I am somewhere. However, the island’s constant rain was having a negative effect. Dominica’s challenging roads were not helping, either. We looked at the weather forecast ahead of time and picked a snorkeling “tour” to Champagne Reef for our next-to-last day of sightseeing.

Snorkeling at Champagne Reef is like swimming through a glass of champagne, with bubbles rising up all around you

Champagne Reef is only about a half hour away from where we were staying, south along the coastal road. We had driven that way when we went to Soufrière Bay a couple days ago. However, the reef where we would meet the tour company is not all the way down to Scotts Head. We hadn’t brought any snorkeling equipment with us to Dominica, not sure we were going to do it after the amazing experience in Galapagos. I figured that anything would pale before that experience.

A short video clip shot with my GoPro underwater camera of me paddling into Champagne Reef

It was raining all morning, and also when we arrived at the reef. Essentially, there is a wider section for parking alongside the coast road and you take some concrete stairs down to the shore. We found the company, and when it was time to go out in the water, they gave us a snorkeling mask and fins, and an airline-style life vest with no flotation at all. I think it is more for visibility than anything, so they can easily spot everyone in their group. Luckily, our group was just the two of us!

A close up of one of the geothermal vents on Champagne Reef that I shot with my GoPro

The beach is a rocky/pebble beach, which made entering the water difficult with fins, but we managed. Our guide led us past an area with lots of yellow tube coral, sea grass, and occasional fish. After that, we headed to the “bubbles.” Geothermal vents cause dozens of strings of bubbles to rise to the surface in this area, like you’re swimming through a glass of champagne (thus, the name). Just before we paddled there, the sun broke through for about the only time that day. So, we timed it perfectly!

Another snorkeler dives down to get closer to the vents

Swimming through the various streams of bubbles, you feel the water get slightly warmer. It was really cool to see the various columns of bubbles, swaying back and forth in the current. They reflected in the sunlight and flowed around you as you paddled over them. It is not a big area, which makes me glad we hired a guide. Later, when we got out, we heard from snorkelers who never found the bubble area. Jenny is a huge fan of all things bubbles, so I am sure it was even cooler of an experience for her. Once we’d finished imbibing in Champagne Reef, our guide led us back towards where we’d started. Along the way, he pointed out a smaller sea turtle. Nothing like the massive ones we saw in Galapagos right next to us, but it is always cool to see “Flippy the Sea Turtle,” wherever we go.

Our first stop on our final day of sightseeing in Dominica was at the Kalinago cultural center

And honestly, that was about it for that day. We went back, showered, and fought with our GoPro cameras to upload and go through the footage we’d taken. Tomorrow would be our last day of sightseeing in Dominica, and I was hoping for better weather! And so it was! We woke up to the sun rising over the green hills, and it would stay out for most of the day. We were driving to the Atlantic coast and then up and around the northern tip of the island. Once again, the roads were challenging getting to our first destination, the Kalinago cultural center. The Kalinago, formerly known as the Carib Indians, have a reserve in Dominica they administer — much like our native American tribal lands in America.

A reconstructed traditional dug out canoe used throughout history by the Carib/Kalinago Indians

We timed it to arrive exactly when it opened, and were successful at that. As hoped, we were the first (and only) visitors when we arrived. Two cruise ships were docked on the island that day, and we hoped to avoid the throngs as much as possible. We met Kenrick, a middle aged Kalinago man, who would be our guide and show us around the center. After reading the displays and placards in the interpretive center, we joined him for a walk around the center. A number of replicas of traditional Kalinago buildings are constructed there. It is also located on a dramatic cover, with the waves of the Atlantic Ocean crashing against rocky shores.

The Kalinago Reserve is located on a beautiful and idyllic spot on the Atlantic coastline

We asked a lot of questions, and it was interesting to hear Kenrick discuss the challenges faced by his people in adapting to modern society. He said most Kalinago have adapted to a modern cash economy and don’t practice subsistence agriculture, hunting, or fishing (how the tribe traditionally made its living). So, fishermen now sell their catch. Farmers sell their crops in markets then use the cash to buy what they need. Others have joined the island’s economy by getting jobs employed as policemen, drivers, tour guides, etc. I asked if they are having a problem with the young leaving the reserve and the residents of the area “aging,” like in many rural areas across the world. He admitted that was the case. Young and old both want to have ‘things” — internet, nicer homes, cars, etc. People who build their homes in the area tend to use modern materials, and will have concrete homes like in other parts of the island. It was a fascinating time listening to him talk about his people and how they’re adapting.

One of the scenic stops we made on our drive along the northern coast of Dominica

Next, we rejoined the main road and circled around the scenic shoreline to the northern part of Dominica. We stopped at a couple places to take photos, as the sun continued to stay out, almost as if it knew this was its last chance to impress us since we were leaving the next day. Our next stop was the Pointe Baptiste Chocolate Factory. We found it, having switched from our Apple Maps app to Google Maps, as it seemed to cover Dominica better. We were given a quick, 20-minute tour of the factory. They walked us through the stages of making chocolate, from pointing out the bulbous cacao beans growing on the trees, to harvesting and removing the separate seeds or beans inside, drying them, and then the technical, machine-aided steps in the air-conditioned inside of the small factory building.

Cacao beans drying before processing into chocolate at the Pointe Baptiste Chocolate Factory

The best part of any chocolate tour is, of course, tasting! They let us try a piece of as many of the dozen or so varieties they had for sale. We ended up buying four large bars, including mint chocolate and 60% dark chocolate. Jenny often gets together with friends for a “chocolate” eventing, so she would have a chance to share some of Dominica with them.

Red Rock Cuisine is the best place to park to explore the scenic Red Rocks area of Dominica

From there, it was a quick drive down the street to Red Rock Cuisine. This restaurant and bar is the best place to park your car to visit the scenic Red Rocks area of Dominica. We once again timed it perfectly, arriving as we were hungry for lunch (even after our chocolate appetizers!). The restaurant is an outdoor one with a very “Tiki bar” type of vibe. We enjoyed lunch, then hiked through their gate and down the short path to Red Rocks. Part of the “red” is actually the reddish clay colored dirt, but there is no question the rocky point is very scenic. You get an amazing view of two wide bays, one nearly uninhabited and the other a gentle arc of the village of Calabishie. Towering rocks overlook the ocean’s surf as it sends wave after wave to crash into the shore.

Panoramic video that I took of the coastline and views at Red Rock, Dominica

Growing up in landlocked Ohio, I’ve always enjoyed the panorama of a rocky shoreline. The sun shone brightly, but the ocean breeze meant it wasn’t too hot. We took dozens of photos, zooming in on where the waves crashed or panning back to get the sweep of the shoreline. I switched between my Nikon camera with its two different lenses, iPhone, and GoPro camera for super-wide angles. There was only one other couple enjoying the scenery, so once again, we had it to ourselves (or almost). It was great to inhale the salty air, feel the sun on my face, and enjoy the wide sea vistas. I wasn’t 100% sure what to expect from the descriptions I’d read of Red Rocks, but I’m glad we stopped. It is not a hiking area, so to speak, but rather an extended scenic viewpoint.

You views of two separate bays, including this one of the Calabishie beach and town front

When we were finally sated on sky, sun, and sea, we hiked back to the restaurant and began the drive back to our hotel. We continued around the northern part of the island to come down the west (Caribbean coast). In our eight days of driving around Dominica, we agreed the western coastal road is in the best shape of all of them on the island. We would have to drive back to the airport the next day, up and over the interior hills, so why not celebrate the sunshine with the closest thing Dominica has to an easy drive?

Close up of the Atlantic surf crashing onto the rocks at Red Rocks, Dominica

With the drive finished, our exploration of the “nature island” of the Caribbean was done. Was it everything we’d hoped for? Honestly, I felt the the unseasonable almost constant rain had marred the hiking experience. The roads, which we knew would be a challenge, were probably more so than we expected. The capital Roseau was a disappointment, too. There was a dearth of places to eat or drink, which for an island that sees so many cruise ship passengers disgorging on a daily basis, was a surprise. All in all, I would say Dominica needs some time to level up its infrastructure for tourists more. If you’re not stopping as a one-day cruise port of call, eight days is too much. I would do fewer, find a hotel that matches your expectations, and book daily tours from there. Doing without the hassle of driving on the roads might improve your experience. Not that we had a bad time, by any means. I would simply say it was less than my expectations upon reading about it. But hey! We saw quite a bit of Country #104, and I was glad we went!

Dominica is not the Caribbean island of white sand beaches - most are black volcanic sand

The “Nature Island” of the Caribbean is not your typical sun and sand destination