Everything is Closed - Take a Hike

The Matka Canyon just outside of Skopje is an excellent place for a hike

So it is Orthodox Easter and virtually all the sights are closed. What to do in Skopje, North Macedonia for a day? Jenny found a nice hike nearby in the Matka Canyon. It was listed as Easy to Moderate, which we learned in Dominica this past December was our sweet spot. There was one problem, though. The half a million Skopje residents were also looking for something to do, since — you know —everything was closed. Orthodox Easter, and all that!

Most of the throngs of people there on Easter Sunday were going for the boat rides

No, there really weren’t a half million people on the hiking trail or at Matka Canyon. However, when we approached the parking area and saw cars parked on the side of the road (including three tour buses), we were a little dismayed. It was thronged with people, many in their “Sunday Best.” Surely those elderly ladies in dress shoes weren’t planning on hiking, were they? We followed the stream of families, strollers, dogs, and occasional folks who looked like they were dressed for hiking. Once we ran the gauntlet of ice cream and coffee stalls, and passed the hydroelectric dam, we saw that most of the people were here for the boat rides or kayaking. There were two types - one that did a loop to see the scenery and another that stopped at a cave and let people off to explore.

The Matka Canyon hike threads along the cliff walls, most of it across sun-drenched rock face

We weren’t there for either - we wanted to finally get some hiking in! We chose wisely, as within 30 minutes on the trail, we virtually had it to ourselves. The trail was very well maintained, and alternated passing through small sections of woods with portions cut into the rock of the cliff faces of the canyon. The trail climbed quickly up along the canyon face until we were about 50 yards above the beautiful, greenish-blue river threading its way through the gorge. Then it kept a fairly steady height, rising and falling only as necessary to stay on the canyon slopes.

Occasionally, the trail winds back inland for a very short section, through shaded woods

Beneath us, tour boats plied the waters, passing every few moments heading in the direction we were hiking, or on their return journey. Some played music or had families singing as they enjoyed the day under brilliant blue skies. The canyon slopes were clad in multiple shades of green, also seemingly dressed in their Easter finest. Contrasting with the brown and orange bare rock face, it made for a beautiful panorama no matter which way you looked.

A steady stream of boats passed beneath us as we hiked along the trail

We began to see tiny cabins on the opposite shore, seemingly only accessible by boat. They each had their own tiny dock and looked like weekend getaways for the wealthier residents of Skopje. At times, the trail ducked under the trees for a couple dozen yards or so, and the temperature dropped a few degrees. It wasn’t too hot, but it was warm enough that the shade felt refreshing as the hours of hiking melted away. We had three miles to the end of the trail and then three back. It was wonderful, though, with the constant lovely views of nature and the gorgeous sunshine and refreshing breezes. As it turned out, we couldn’t have picked a better day to hike Matka Canyon than today. The trail was a perfect, Easy-to-Moderate exertion to make you feel like your hiking through nature, but not so much to feel like you’re slogging to a destination just to say you did it.

One of the gorgeous views that greeted us at every twist and turn along the Matka Canyon trail

Some hikes have long, grueling climbs up steep slopes with trees closed in all around you so you don’t see much. In Matka Canyon, you never really lose sight of the beautiful river and it was one lovely view after another. It was only the last half mile or so of the hike when the trail seemed slightly less kept up. We had to push aside the occasional branch or underbrush. At a couple of spots, the intermittent hand rails over steep drop offs were in disrepair. Still, hats off to the local government or hiking society that maintains the trail. It was joy to hike along it (and back). At the end, we saw the tour boats disembarking their passengers to investigate the cave. Disappointingly, it was on the opposite bank and there was no way to cross for hikers to visit it, too.

The trail ended at the spot opposite where the boat rides disembark passengers to visit the cave

When we returned to the parking area, the throngs of people had multiplied. If we thought Matka Canyon was packed before, it was ridiculously crowded, now. We couldn’t thread our way out fast enough! We hightailed it back towards town and our next sight - the Millennium Cable Car. Nature was free and open on Easter! Fortunately, the cable car was running and there was no line of people waiting to get on. The line ascends to Mt. Vodno, which overlooks Skopje from a height of 3,497 feet. Considering how busy the canyon had been, we were surprised how the top wasn’t packed with people enjoying the holiday.

The Millennium Cable Car takes riders from Skopje to the top of Mount Vodno

After our 6-mile hike, we rewarded ourselves with a cold Macedonian beer and sat at a cafe and enjoyed the view. On the ride to top, we had passed over the hiking trail leading to the summit. Had we felt more energetic, we could have planned to ride the cable car up and hike down. We had done the bulk of our walking already, so were content to walk around the perimeter at the top and check out the various viewpoints. The slopes of Vodno are not very steep, so the buildings of the city were pretty far away. Compared to other mountain top panoramas overlooking a city, Vodno wasn’t a “can’t miss” sight. Still, I was glad we did it.

View of Skopje from atop Mount Vodno

After a short scare of the cable car shutting down (Did it close early on Easter? Why didn’t they tell us?), it started running again after its half hour “break.” Really? A cable car needs a scheduled union break every hour? What? Did someone insert a cigarette in its mechanical lips so it could chill for a half hour of its long shift?? The people in charge really couldn’t figure out a way to schedule personnel to relieve folks on their breaks? We laughed about it afterwards, but weren’t really looking forward to walking down!

The top of Mount Vodno, with its Millennium Cross and the unfinished telecommunications tower

It had been a great day, again. North Macedonia springs seemed to have an inexhaustible supply of picture-perfect days. Would it have one more in store for us on our final day of sightseeing? If so, it would certainly be a great Easter gift for us!

We stayed up till midnight before Easter to watch the festivities at the city’s main church